Today was one of the most genuine tastes of Cuban culture we have experienced. I returned directly after Spanish class to our hometel to finish writing a response to Lenin’s Imperialism: the Highest stage of Capitalism. Then, directly after Third World Underdevelopment class we trekked to the bus station to catch the P-1 bus back to the university in order to meet our friends from FEU at the FEU office on campus. It had started to rain so after a little while we agreed to settle for a more comfortable and more expensive maquina. I was the first to get one, I settled into the back of a squished green wagon of the 50s. As we were driving I tried to imagine myself as a kid in the backseat when that car would have been the envy of all the neighbors. It was still in very good condition. In any case, before a certain distance, a maquina ride from playa is supposed to cost 50cents, and when you go beyond that point, one dollar (paid in Cuban pesos, of course). I told him a location before (calle H por favor) and handed him a 20 (same as 1dollar). He looked at me blankly. Change? I asked, “No” was the reply and then some curt explanation as to why I was wrong that I couldn’t understand. I walked up the rest of the way to the school. My shoes were wet. Everything was wet really. At FEU we met our friends. Some had important things to do, so our exhibition today would be solely with L.
We walked with L to another bus stop (P-11 this time) where we encountered the soccer team from their neighborhood just after winning their game. We spend the 25-minute bus ride talking with them and joking around with the team. They were very funny and were poking fun at each other the whole way (estaban dando chuchu). When we got off the bus a few of them stayed with us while L tried to find the apartment of a friend of hers we were to meet. Minutes later we were upstairs in the apartment of a young man (and family) who practiced reglas de ocha – or, Santeria. He was planning on having a party that night, but had to cancel because his mom wasn’t feel well (poor thing! It was her birthday too!), and his friends had been unavailable. But then he continued to explain that L had told him we wanted to learn how to salsa dance, and about his religion also.
Soon his speakers were blasting some traditional Cuban salsa music with the likes of VanVan, las Orilljas, and many others I have never heard of. they cleared a spot for us and the next thing we know we’re on our feet dancing away. Presently a few friends came in, an exchange student named Paula from Colombia, a younger brother and a friend. Soon we’re being taught the steps by everyone in the house and having a great time, though I’m not sure it was such a pretty sight. We worked up a sweat dancing so our friend asked if we might like to take a break. We collapsed on the couches. Then, he described the beginnings of Santeria and also its modern day applications. Santeria began under colonization by the Spanish when the Cubans went to the catholic ceremonies but secretely worshiped many of their traditional afrocuban gods. With their traditional and catholic religions combined, they saught to find similarities between their gods and those of the colonizers.
Today the religion of Santeria does not discriminate by race or sex. Each household varies in how strict they are. In Cuba one sees a great number of people walking wearing all white-which at first seems quite peculiar. Those in all white are on their way to becoming saints, and must be pure- so they wear white, carry parasols to avoid sunshine and rain in order to, as he implied, be as pure as infants because they are like baby saints. Those who practice seem to me to be very suspicious and to put much weight on ritual. They have little alters with bones and feathers and other curious items entangled within.
Once he had graciously answered all of our questions he asked if we would like to play a game of dominoes. They asked if we had ever played. “only when you line them up and then break them” I answered. From the lack of response to this comment, I don’t think they have ever seen such a game occur. In any case, that was not the dominoes game we were playing. This one involved strategy and skill and though I had beginners luck the first 3 games, by the fourth (my first without assistance) I lost by quite a lot.
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Hey, Hillevi, I was so surprised that you got asked to play dominoes! I remember travelling in Scotland in the early 80s. There are domino clubs in pubs all over Scotland and the sound of the domino pieces moving at breakneck speed is all one hears when the games have begun. Is Lent seriously observed in Cuba? Peg Richard
ReplyDeleteHey Peg!
ReplyDeleteIt was so much fun! there are lots of Dominoes fanatics here it seems. In the parks and around the city you can find square tables with four men crouched over their pieces. there are several chess games too i think. Lent is not seriously observed- if it is observed at all. Most people are atheist. We were talking with a friend in FEU (the student political group) who said that her grandmother was christian, but she abandoned the religion when she joined FEU. Any religious paraphernalia used to banned outright by the government, but those harsh restrictions have since been lifted.