Tuesday, February 23, 2010

2.14.10

Happy Valentines Day everyone! Normally I hate this holiday for its cheesy commercial value but in Cuba ‘el día de los enamorados’ is really very sweet. I’m also in a good mood because we just got back from a long weekend excursion through (por) the countryside to Playa Giron and Santa Clara (para). Though I hadn’t realized it before, I needed a break from the city of Havana and it was a fascinating and fun trip. Since it is Valentine’s Day, I’ll try to express the holiday festivities here and perhaps then highlight some of the zeniths of the entire trip.



Late February 13th, the night before Saint Valentine’s Day we arrived in Santa Clara. Villa Clara, as locals call it, is city that today commemorates Che. His remains are stored under a giant memorial and museum in the center, along with those of his fellow Guerrilla combatants from Bolivia. The ‘love in the air’ in Villa Clara is very different than what you see along the Malecón. Part of what I witnessed in Santa Clara was a young and artsy population. We went to the museum of decorative art and walked in on two young women singing, playing the guitar, the piano, and the harmonica. I would describe their music as a little folky, a bit traditional, and some very sweet jazz sounds. The open patio atmosphere with the soft orange and purple lights made a perfect romantic setting for many couples I would imagine.



When the concert got out, we walked around the square, the song ‘chan chan’ rang out of a crowded corner bar, we continued toward the one and only hotel (where we were staying). Some slower live music drifted to us from underneath the old Greek columns of a closed building. On a ledge rested a partially empty bottle of ‘havana club’ rum and next to it 10 or so couples aged 60-75 were dancing in the street to the music of the serenading salsa players. The flower venders across the park were packing up their goods to head home for the night. At 11:30 we went back our hotel, before the start of the actual holiday.
It was so nice to be free from the chocolate hearts and expensive packaged valentines-day-cards. Instead we saw something more genuine: the old dancing couples knew their partners next step before it came. They had clearly spent years dancing together.
Look who has become quite the romantic!

Highlights of our excursion:
-Museo Giron- great little museum located in the vicinity of the Bay of Pigs invasion and dedicated to the invasion as the turning point in history when the revolution was declared a socialist revolution.
-A short boat ride to a replica of a pre-colonial indigenous community
-I saw the beach where I’ll be SCUBA diving in the near future (SO EXCITING)
-Finally went to a Casa Particular for dinner, and it was delicious
-A wonderful mojito from the top of the tallest building in Santa Clara.



-Learning more about Che Guevara. My previous knowledge is only from The Motorcycle Diaries.
-An impromptu visit to the farm of our driver’s friend. We rode his horse around the yard and met the family as well as saw his house. I have never felt so immediately welcomed in any place. We’ve all been invited to return if ever we are in the neighborhood again. Ultimately I really enjoyed seeing the countryside and seeing this other version of Cuban life.

At this point I am 1/5 through my time here in Cuba. It has gone by so quickly that it is very hard for me to believe. I am in a good place though, I have only excitement for the next 3/5 of my time, and only dread for the last 1/5!

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