First night in the city.

okay- I’m hoping ( I just typed hopping- this blog may prove an embarrassing enterprise) ANYWAY, I’m HOPING for less words more pictures in this post. I haven’t tried using the Internet downstairs in the lobby yet, so we’ll see- any pictures may be a lofty goal.

It was chilly when I woke up this morning. I think that will be a trend although the air conditioning (!) was on and there is evidently a cold front traveling through. But I slept well. We ate breakfast in the hotel (nothing spectacular- isn’t likely to become a habit) and then met with the same tour woman who brought us from the airport. It is nice having a week of orientation because I definitely feel like I need it. The city is either larger, or more sprawled than I had imagined it to be- I’m not sure which quite yet. In our tour we drove down the Malecón and through some of residential Havana. The houses and apartments look like embassies and the embassies look like houses. Except for a large group of Asian tourists that flew in with us- I’m having a hard time distinguishing between tourists and locals even though it is tourist season. On the Malecón, where there was an old sea wall built for protection, I was really struck by the circumstances of my surroundings. For a minute I felt like I was at fort Williams exploring the rubble of the old monuments. So many of the houses, office buildings and store fronts look washed of their color and detail. Then there are the actual forts. Our tour guide mentioned an old fort that had been turned into a restaurant and bar extended out on the water, which seems like it would be fun. But while part of me felt like I was close to home in South Portland, the other half felt transported back in time. The old cars zipping in and out of view were, for lack of more descriptive language, so cool! (Dad- I saw several lada taxis with porsche stickers(?) and an Alfa Romeo truck/van). Then there are numerous more colorful and curvy American cars.

At one point I thought of Bly because there were all these old fashioned cars and a movie theater with the original reel-style matinee signs. It would be an incredible place for a vintage afternoon. Unfortunately the international film festival was in December evidently, so I’m afraid I missed that one.
I learned this disappointing fact while we were walking around and our tourguide was pointing out a hotel “on the left, where jimmy carter used to always stay”. We were interrupted by two women dressed (traditionally? I kind of doubt it) like Chiquita banana who wished to know if we would like to take a picture with them for a small charge. We declined. At one point a tiny old shriveled lady smoking a cigar asked us “for a picture”. We declined her also, but she was more tempting simply because honestly that picture would have been awesome. And I’m so glad i’m reading Hemmingway! “and on the right, you see the hotel where Hemmingway would stay, room 511*; Later we’ll see the bar where he drank his mojitos and then we’ll pass the bar where he had his favorite daiquiris”. *it may have been 508. In my pre-departure “pleasure” reading- loving che (not a recommended book really) the narrator says she thinks it is strange/sad how many of Cuba’s national heroes are not nationals. That really stuck with me today in the city when I noticed all of the Che monuments and references, Marti (he was only here a short time) statues and boulevards, and the Hemmingway eating hotspots.
I had my first guarapo (??): sugar cane, lemon and rum, and also my first Cuban mojito. Both were realllyyy sweet. First lunch? Spagetti. I think a lot of Havana offers Italian cuisine. So much for beans and rice (Emily wier!)
Part of me feels foolish here. I’m right on schedule for culture shock- currently in the adoration phase. I see it this way: Havana and I are dating. Mom, dad, I’d like you to meet my city. I think it is pretty seriously cool, and also gorgeous. Currently we are in a honeymoon phase of dating, and I still am unsure of what to order at meals, and how to dress for our dates. At this moment, despite some anxiousness and anxiety about how it will be to stay in this hotel that is quite far (25 min drive) from the hubbub of the city and even farther from normal Cuban life, I can totally understand some wealthy old cigar smoker coming to live here for ever. It is pretty, warm, there are no advertisements (Dad! That should be music to your ears- though it is arguably just the result of no freedom of speech), the people are friendly and it is coastal. Also bio 181 kids- you don’t feel as accosted by taxi drivers as we often did during the last week of our Costa Rica trip

I wrote the above when we returned to our hotel for a break before dinner. Dr. Mckelvey gave Katie lots of money and told us we could take a cab to head out to dinner without him if we liked. We took some time at the hotel to revamp, and then decided to head out for dinner. We wanted live music and the guidebook mentioned café Taberna: “Occupying a restored 18th century mansion, this restaurant has a house band and nine piece conjunto that play here nightly” It was in old Habana near the square I learned about when the ex-tufts professor came to speak about Cuba. We took our cab and found the restaurant, talking the bartender down from 50 convertible pesos per person to 40- aka one person free if we had five! Still SO expensive, but again, it was on our program director. We decided to go for it after learning that one of the band performers was a member of the Buena Vista Social Club. The dinner wouldn’t be for another two hours or so, so we walked down to the Malecón to wait. It was nice- I like being able to actually see the stars and Orian seems like the distinguishable constellation from this location. The Malecón is full of couples smooching and cuddling, it reminds me of the “hotsprings” of Fortuna.
Later we make our way back to the café, and find our seats…right at the front as promised by jorge- the bartender. The music starts and we are completely in it. I recognized chan chan, el cuarto de Tula and dos gardenias. The bands were great, they even had a dancing pair that salsa’d their way between tables, around band members and even up the stairs. The music lasted from 9 or 930 until midnight. In that time, Mr. Buena Vista Social Club pulled two of us from our chairs to dance, we joined a congo line, we all danced behind them and I got a kiss on the forehead from Mr. Buena Vista. Very fun, very showy, VERY cool first night in Havana experience. We just got back to the hotel and I’m exhausted.



So much for brevity. Feelings: Tired, Content and Wondering what we could possibly have in store for ourselves tomorrow.